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1  Classifieds / Auto-Parts Wanted / For Sale / 2.5L and 2.0L plugs, STi/ EVO pads and EJ20 O2 sensors on: September 15, 2011, 06:24:51 PM
Legacy Plugs or 2.5L WRX or 2.5L STi Plugs aka Long-reach plugs
         One Step Colder  NGK LFR7AIX  Price: $5000 for set of 4

2.0L WRX or STi Plugs (also works with other 2.0L, 1.8L and 1.6L)
        One Step Colder NGK BKR7EIX Price: $5000 for set of 4

Rear STi or EVO Brake Pads
       Hawk Ceramic  Price: $15,000 for the set  

EJ20  Front and Rear OEM DENSO O2 Senors
               Price: Front $15,000
                        Rear $10,000

Call or Text: 337-6461 for more details
2  Technical Discussion / General Discussion / INFO on head work on: August 05, 2011, 03:03:04 PM

An internal combustion engine is like a big air pump, and the more air you can get it to pump, the more torque and horsepower it will make. Things like bigger camshafts, aftermarket intakes and exhausts can help increase airflow to a certain point, but ultimately, to get the most out of your high-tech air pump, you've got to make the cylinder head more efficient.

The goal of modding any cylinder head is to increase its volumetric efficiency (VE). The VE is a measurement of how efficiently an engine can pump air relative to how much it displaces. For example, if an engine has a displacement of 1000cc and moves 700cc of air with every stroke, it has a VE of 70 percent. If it moved 1000cc with each stroke, the VE would be 100 percent.

1. Cleaning up any imperfections...      read full caption
1.Cleaning up any imperfections where the valve meets the head, as shown here, will help the intake charge flow into the head with the least amount of resistance possible.Most modern multi-valve engines have a peak volumetric efficiency of around 80 percent; which leaves plenty of room for improvement. All things equal, bringing the VE up by 10 percent should yield an additional 10 percent increase in power and torque-in theory at least. There are different ways to increase the VE of a 4-stroke cylinder head, and the key to getting the highest VE is to make sure all the methods and parts used are compatible.

Aftermarket cams can increase airflow by keeping the valves open for a longer period of time (more duration), or by just pushing the valve farther into the combustion chamber (more lift). Be warned, if you just install bigger cams without making any changes to the head, you're not getting all the power the cams can offer. Because OEM heads often have many manufacturing imperfections in the ports and combustion chamber that inhibit flow, often times opening the valves up more or longer won't increase airflow much over stock.

Even without changing the camshafts, mild headwork can increase an engine's VE substantially, and gains of around 10 percent or more are common if the job was done well. If that's not enough and you decide to toss some cams on too, consider this: Camshafts and heads are designed to work as a single unit. In order to get the best results, have the same shop that does the headwork grind you a set of custom camshafts to match the head.

In this article, we'll show you what you need to know if you deicide to take your air pump to the next level, as well as showing you a few tricks you can do at home to get the most out of your head.

2. This strange-looking machine...      read full caption
2.This strange-looking machine is used to force an abrasive putty-like substance through things like intake manifolds and cylinder head ports to remove casting imperfections and increase airflow.Valve JobsBelieve it or not, all the cylinder head gurus we spoke with agreed that 50 percent of the gains of a full port and polish could be had by simply performing a quality valve job. This is good news for budget racers, considering the cost of a quality port and polish.

The reason behind this phenomenon is a simple one. All of the air that flows into the engine must flow directly past the valve, making the aerodynamic profile of the valve very important. If the valve has sharp angles and casting imperfections, it will create turbulence and decrease the amount of air that can move past it. Making the valve as aerodynamic as possible can pay in dividends.

Multi-angle valve jobs are the most common way to make a valve more aerodynamic and make the head more efficient. A multi-angle valve job puts extra cuts on the valve near where it mates with the cylinder head, streamlining it and helping to move air past its surfaces with the minimum resistance and turbulence possible. OEM valve jobs are usually one or two-angle valve jobs. This is done to keep costs low, and even if they want more airflow, OEMs will often just switch to a larger valve instead of using multi-angle valve jobs because it's cheaper than performing the extra machining of a multi-angle job. However, for the average enthusiast, the opposite typically holds true because oversized valves can be very costly.

3. Here's a head that's received...      read full caption
3.Here's a head that's received some mild work. As you can see, the ports are smooth and the combustion chamber has no imperfections. This is how it should look.The more angles a valve job employs, the better it will generally flow. The most common multi-angle valve jobs are 3-angle, 5-angle and radius valve jobs. A radius valve job is basically a 5-angle job where the transitions between the 5 angles are smoothed out. The downside is that the more cuts, the higher the cost. For this reason, 3-angle jobs are the most common and offer a good balance between cost and performance. Don't underestimate the importance of a quality valve job.

Porting And PolishingWe've all heard the term "ported and polished," and it's likely we've all got idea what it means. To the average enthusiast, this means enlarging, and possibly reshaping the intake and exhaust ports and polishing the combustion chamber. Sounds simple enough, right?

4. Here's a head that's received...      read full caption
4.Here's a head that's received some mild work. As you can see, the ports are smooth and the combustion chamber has no imperfections. This is how it should look.Wrong. Cylinder head porting is an art. While we can explain some of the common methods and techniques, because of the advanced physics involved, porting is something best left to the professionals. In fact, without expensive and complex equipment, there is no way to even measure any changes.

Contrary to popular belief, a good port job doesn't simply include making all the ports as big as possible, as this will often result in a soggy engine that has lousy throttle response. Things like air velocity must be taken into consideration, which sometimes requires making the ports smaller than stock to increase the velocity. That's the thing about porting-sometimes the results are counter-intuitive; which means unless you are willing to destroy a few heads through trial and error, make sure your head shop knows what they are doing. The only real way to test if the changes that were made helped is with the use of a flow bench or a dyno... and do you have either of those?

What the car will be used for will generally dictate how much porting will actually be done. Proper porting takes into consideration things like engine size, RPM range, horsepower, etc and must be done to match the other mods. For a street car, this usually means only cleaning up casting imperfections, a mild un-shrouding of the valves and smoothing everything out. For a full-race motor, a port job might include enlarging the intake and exhaust ports as well as reshaping and polishing the combustion chamber. It all depends on the goals. Any reputable head builder should be able to tell you what is best for your application.

3  Technical Discussion / General Discussion / Should I upgrade my plugs??? on: August 05, 2011, 02:56:13 PM

This month we investigate a common question many "noob" enthusiasts have about "upgrading" OE-recommended sparkplugs to more expensive alternatives: Will it increase power? To find an answer, we hit Ultimate Tuning's Dynojet dyno, armed with some basic tools, our project DC2 and some popular sparkplug contenders.

Test 1: Champion Copper Plus. Costing you $1.49 each, these OEM-style copper plugs are about as basic as it gets. There was some debate as to whether or not they'd actually lose power over our two month old NGK coppers, but after three pulls they proved their worth, powering our B18B to a six-run average of 131.9 whp and 118.6 lb-ft of torque.

Test 2: Champion Platinum Power. While Champion makes no claims that these plugs will increase power, online outlets selling the product do. In theory, platinum is a more efficient conductor than copper and should improve combustion and increase power. When put to a six-run test, however, they brought an average power improvement of only 0.8 whp and 0.0 lb-ft of torque.

Test 3: Champion Iridium. Iridium is a favorite among many big-name aftermarket manufacturers, exotic car OEMs and enthusiasts looking for an extra edge. The center electrode of an iridium plug tapers to a point as it nears its ground; the idea being that it focuses spark energy into a narrow, more intense arc, thus increasing combustion efficiency. These plugs narrowly made it to the dyno at all-the first one we installed broke off in the cylinder head when we tightened it with the specified method of a half-turn past hand-tight. While the plugs' build quality didn't impress us much, they actually made some power on the dyno-2.9 whp and 1.1 lb-ft of torque over the coppers!

Conclusion: Swapping spark plugs can increase power output if the OE-recommended plugs can't ignite air and fuel at maximum efficiency. In modified engines-those with increased compression, forced induction, nitrous or water/alcohol injection-a substantial improvement can be seen through upgrading stock ignition system components. Engines like our N/A, stock-compression B18B do pretty well with the OE-recommended plugs, and frankly we were surprised to see any gains at all; a testament to the benefits of iridium plugs. While we don't agree with "big power" claims often promised by spark plug manufacturers, if they can do a better job of increasing combustion effi ciency, you'll see a few extra ponies and a slight increase in fuel economy. Our suggestion? If you're going to replace your plugs, spend a few extra $$ and buy iridium.

4  Technical Discussion / General Discussion / ENGINE BUILDING INFO on: August 05, 2011, 09:53:43 AM
INFO taken from IMPORT TUNER MAGAZINE (found it very informative and useful, ENJOY!) 2 thumbs up

OEM vs. Aftermarket Bearing

New crankshaft and rod bearings are almost always a must when rebuilding an engine, but not all bearings are created equal. Factory bearings are usually made of weak alloys that can neither handle abuse nor high oil temperatures. In fact, many factory engine bearings can start delaminating once they reach a temperature of as little as 230 degrees Fahrenheit during sustained use.

Tri-metal (e.g., Clevite) or quad-metal bearings (e.g., ACL and Cosworth) have greater wear resistance properties and can withstand higher engine loads for extended periods compared to OEM bearings. Steel-backed bearings layered with tri- or quad-layered alloys are designed to handle severe forces from high boost and/or high horsepower. OEM manufacturers have shifted to using aluminum bearings in today’s vehicles, which is easily recyclable and good for the environment, but less than ideal when used in racing or high-horsepower applications due to their fragile construction.

When removing old bearings, inspect them for unusual wear or damage such as scoring, wiping, and dirt or debris embedded in the surface. Inadequate oil cooling is also a cause of many high-boost engine failures on street and road race cars. Anything other than normal wear may indicate an underlying problem that needs to be corrected before the new bearings are installed.

Cylinder Boring/Honing
It’s unfortunate, but most automotive machine shops do not put enough attention to detail into honing the cylinder block. Reputable machine shops will go to great lengths when boring a block in order to simulate the same internal stresses the block is under while running. This includes bolting on components that stress the block (torque plate, water pump, head studs, etc.) in its assembled and torqued state.

Honing should always be done with a torque plate (usually a thick, heavy piece of precision-ground steel (minimum two inches) or thick piece of aluminum plate with holes cut into it for access to the cylinder bores) and with the studs and type of head gasket that will be used in the final assembly of the engine. This assures that the cylinder block is honed while in its assembled and torqued state. Torquing the head gasket in place during the boring/horning of the block will apply a certain amount of un-even pressure on the cylinder walls, distorting the final round dimension the machinist wishes to achieve. Some race engine machinists take it a step further and will even run heated coolant through the cylinder block during honing to further simulate the cylinder block’s expansion at operating temperature, states Eric.

How important is it to use a torque plate? We had a machine shop measure the bore distortion with and without the torque plate on a Nissan KA24DE block. Our machinist measured almost 0.001-inch difference, which may seem inconsequential, but in the world of racing that fraction of an inch means everything. Eric mentions it’s safer to run more piston-to-cylinder wall clearance than less; especially if your bores are not perfect.

Head Gaskets

Stock head gaskets maintain proper sealing under normal driving loads. But as compression ratios and combustion pressures go up, a stock head gasket may not be able to maintain a leak-free seal. But beware: not all multi-layered steel gaskets are created equal. Factory or generic MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) gaskets used in modern vehicles aren’t designed to seal under extreme conditions. What distinguishes performance head gaskets from ordinary head gaskets is their design and stronger combustion chamber armor. You’ll notice some of the generic MLS laser-cut gaskets have ripples in the layers after being riveted together, states Eric. This is due to poor dimensional consistency from attempting to laser cut a 0.15mm piece of stainless steel.

Over the years, performance engine builders have used a variety of tricks to keep their engines sealed, such as using copper O-rings around the combustion chambers. Copper O-rings are great in theory and can improve cylinder sealing in some cases, but they do cause additional cylinder head deflection, which is also detrimental to cylinder head sealing. Aside from the quality of the head gasket seal, it’s important to keep in mind the quality of the factory cylinder head castings as well. For example, the Mitsubishi 4G63 head castings were never designed to handle 600+ horsepower. They were designed for 300 horsepower and trying to seal double or triple the power for more than a quarter-mile is asking a lot from the cylinder head.

Some performance oriented head gaskets (e.g., Cosworth, HKS, Tomei, A’pexi, etc.) are designed with stopper layers that increase the sealing force immediately around the cylinders and are stamped from dies, which allow for very exact dimensional tolerances. Development of the stopper head gasket was brought about by those wanting to improve an MLS gaskets design for higher boost levels. The stopper head gasket’s folded layer design raises the gasket around the cylinders by 0.15mm to help increase the clamping load when torquing the cylinder head. Increasing gasket height by 0.15mm might seem inconsequential in terms of sealing, but those protrusions from the top and bottom layers significantly affect how well the gasket seals, as is shown on the ink imprint diagram comparing a Brand X gasket (left) versus a Cosworth (right). The side-by-side comparison shows that the Cosworth gasket produces a better impression around the combustion chambers than the Brand X unit. If your engine continues to blow gaskets even after using aftermarket gaskets and O-ringing, Eric has a simple solution: Turn the power down.

OEM Head Bolts vs. Aftermarket Head Studs

When building an engine, the horsepower and torque potential of an engine often dictates the type of head fastener that should be used. Typically, head studs are better suited for high-performance vehicles with greater power requirements, while head bolts are more practical for daily drivers.

Choosing whether to use head bolts or head studs can be an important decision that affects the way a car performs. While they are both fasteners and serve a similar function, there are numerous differences that make head bolts and studs distinct from one another.

During engine assembly or after intensive internal maintenance, it’s common practice to replace the factory head bolts. Head bolts, also known as torque-to-yield bolts, are designed as one-time use bolts and will permanently stretch once installed. OEM head bolts are designed to provide both a twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the combustion chamber begins to accumulate load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.

The Truth Behind The Subaru EJ-Series Engines - Tech-Knowledge
Are they as weak as tuners claim?

5  Technical Discussion / General Discussion / Exhaust FAQ on: August 04, 2011, 02:09:51 PM
Info taken from posted by EJ257

One of the most common questions in the "Engine Modifications" section is about what parts to purchase.

Below is a diagram that gives a graphical representation of the intake/exhaust components:

There are four main types of aftermarket exhaust components you can purchase:

Catback Exhaust

Like the name suggests, this will replace the exhaust after the catalytic converters. This section of the exhaust is the largest determining factor of the exhaust note/tone.

Things to consider when getting ready to purchase a catback:
Style (straight / angled)
Taper (some exhausts taper to 2.5" to mate with an OEM downpipe)
Choosing an exhaust is something that needs to be done in-person. While a YouTube video can give you an idea of the various exhausts, there is no quality control to really be able to differentiate (e.g., camera quality, distance between exhaust/microphone, etc.). Where I find YouTube to be useful in deciding on a catback is to narrow down your list of choices. Once you've got a few exhausts to choose from, it's time to hit up Subaru meets; here will give you the best chance to hear how different exhausts sound. At one of our local meets, you'll usually have at least 6 different exhausts you can hear. Hearing the exhaust outside the car is well and good, but you also need to hear it in-cabin. Ask the owner to take you for a drive; on the drive, try to hit every style of driving you can (city, highway, etc.). Once you've had a chance to hear all the exhausts on your list, pick whichever one you like best.

Because something like a catback is so subjective, no one can really answer a question like "What's the best catback?" Personally, I prefer a more "stealth" approach both in looks and volume. Pretty much any brand will perform the same (any difference you see by switching catbacks is minimal enough to be equated to "dyno error").


Most aftermarket downpipes replace the section of exhaust between the catback and the turbo. Only '02-'05 MYs need to worry about the few "shorty" downpipes on the market (e.g., Bosal, Oakos) which only replace the section closest to the turbo (leaving the rear cat pipe in place).

Modification of emission control devices (e.g., catalytic converters) is a violation of the Federal Clean Air Act (§203(a)(3)(A)), and therefore is illegal in every U.S. state. Some downpipes include high-flow cat(s), while others are completely catless; a downpipe which utilizes HFC(s) is just as illegal as fully catless. When determining whether or not to run a catted/catless downpipe, it is up to the end-user to research their local/state emissions laws. On vehicles with stock or mildly upgraded turbos, a HFC will not impact the performance that much (minimal enough to be equated to "dyno error"). Some owners (mostly 2.5L) have had boost creep issues with catless downpipes, and will switch to a catted exhaust to provide some backpressure; some cars have boost creep, some cars don't.

There are three styles of downpipes you can purchase:
As for which is the "best" design, you want a downpipe to be as free-flowing as possible. The flat-plate design blocks the wastegate, and is generally considered an "inferior" design on an internal wastegate turbo (this is negated when an external wastegate comes into play). The difference between a flat-plate and bellmouth/divorced downpipe has a direct correlation with the flow of the turbo. When comparing bellmouth/divorced, in theory, separating the exhaust/wastegate gases with a divorced-style downpipe is ideal, but the difference is minimal enough to be equated to "dyno error". Pretty much any brand will perform the same (any difference you see by switching downpipes is minimal enough to be equated to "dyno error").

The main thing to consider is whether or not the downpipe tapers or not. Most downpipes on the market are a full 3", but a few taper to 2.5" to mate with an OEM-style catback.

You usually need to modify the OE heatshield to fit aftermarket downpipes. If the heatshield is missing, you can usually pick them up cheap from the classified section. If you also need the bracket to attach it, you want Subaru P/N 44021AA012.


Headers replace the exhaust manifold, which connects the engine to the uppipe.

There are two styles of aftermarket headers:
Equal-length (EL)
Unequal-length (UEL)
Turbo Subarus come with UEL exhaust manifolds from the factory, which is what gives it the signature "Boxer Rumble". An equal length header will make a Subaru sound more like a Porsché. Strictly from an efficiency standpoint, aftermarket UEL headers will usually make smaller gains than EL headers.

The power difference between brands is minimal enough to be equated to "dyno error". There are, however, differences in the way an aftermarket header impacts the powerband (e.g., some have great top-end at the cost of low-end, some offer a huge bump in the mid-range, etc.). Aftermarket headers are prone to cracking; the only manufacturer I haven't heard of cracking is Full-Race.

An alternative to aftermarket headers is porting/polishing (PnP) the OEM exhaust manifold. While a PnP'd manifold won't give the gains an aftermarket header will, the cast manifolds will very rarely have the cracking issues that headers do.


This exhaust component connects the exhaust manifold to the turbo.

Any 2.0L WRX has a catalytic converter in the uppipe, and should be replaced. The following thread goes into more detail:
Attn '02-'05 WRX Owners: The Importance of the Uppipe Mod

There are two types of uppipes:
There is no difference in performance between a solid uppipe, and one that has a flex section. Personally, I prefer uppipes with a flex section (the OEM 2.5L uppipes have a flex section). The power difference between brands is minimal enough to be equated to "dyno error".

This following only applies to 2.0L WRXs: Subaru included an EGT sensor in the OEM 2.0L uppipes as a precautionary measure to check the healthiness of the catalytic converter. Since you're going to be removing the cat, it is no longer necessary to run this (EGT should be measured in the exhaust manifold for accurate readings anyway). Reusing the stock EGT sensor is only going to run the risk of that breaking off and getting sucked into the turbo, causing damage. If the uppipe you're installing has an EGT bung, then use a bolt (M12 x 1.25) to plug the hole. There is a CEL associated with this modification that needs to be taken care of: P0546 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input). This is often disabled with "StageII" maps, but if you're running the stock map, you'll need to do the "2.2 KOhm resistor mod". You can buy these at any electronics store (e.g., RadioShack), and should cost you ~$1. This resistor gets placed in the bottom connector just in front of the passenger strut tower.


Heat-wrapping or ceramic coating exhaust components is a popular modification. It serves two purposes: retaining exhaust gas temperature (EGT) for better flow, and reducing heat soak. The one downside to heat retention is that it may accelerate material fatigue/wear. Most people believe the pros outweigh the con. Before doing any type of heat retention to your exhaust component, make sure you understand the effects it may have on that parts warranty. Personally, I feel it's worthwhile to do this on any exhaust component in the engine bay (exhaust manifold / headers, uppipe), and the first half of the downpipe. You can wrap the entire downpipe if you'd like, but maintaining EGT isn't as important post-turbo (as it is for the other exhaust parts), and there no longer is the benefit of added heat soak prevention.

When possible, consider purchasing used exhaust components. You can save quite a bit of money when purchasing parts from the classified sections (and you help another Subaru owner get rid of unused parts). Exhaust parts may be shiny when purchased new, but it's not long before they've begun to discolor, so why not let someone else take the hit in depreciation? While my example is a bit extreme, it just shows how much shopping used can save: my downpipe and catback retail for ~$1000 total new; I paid $200 used.

On the subject of "eBay parts": the reason they are less expensive than other brand name parts is because the companies use inferior materials, utilize what can be equated to slave labor, and have no R&D overhead because they copy an already proven design. While the cheaper cost of parts may be good for the consumer, it does nothing but harm for the Subaru aftermarket community. Supporting this business practice leaves the companies that actually do the R&D and develop quality parts little incentive to continue if some other company can just purchase their part and copy it, and be able to sell their "own" part for a lot less. Greddy had quite a bit of financial trouble in 2009 and filed for bankruptcy; which popular, well-respected company is next? Some vendors have realized the popularity of these parts, and have begun selling and stocking them, which is also a complete disservice to the aftermarket community, since it gives the parts a more legitimate reputation. If cost is really your only consideration, then seriously consider purchasing used parts instead.
6  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: July 26, 2011, 09:26:28 PM
Yow bro what's up I c u changed ur mind man  lol, yup she is additive I know. Bwoy jah star I am lost for words all I can say is WOW!!!  wub wub

Lol when it came down to it there was realli no point in replacing her, all I would want is another STi and all that meant was slightly better paint, higher insurance premiums, replacing aging parts (clutch, bushings, tires, timing belt, etc.) that the previous owner may leave behind and maybe even a higher milage (80,000km on a 2001 chassis  in phenomenal in my opinion ). Plus this is a rare and unique car, how many Bugeye Prodrive's u know in JA because I can only think of 2 others.

They say one never knows what they had til it's gone... But I kno what I got  wub
7  Classifieds / Cars Wanted / For Sale / 2008 Subaru forester for sale on: July 21, 2011, 08:47:01 AM
KIG model
2000cc engine
sunroof, sports wheel, cruise control, fog lights
serious interests only
contact: 5361846

8  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: July 13, 2011, 09:07:33 PM
So the car has been under the knife since last week Wednesday, since then a major problem had come up but it has been dealt with rather promptly to avoid further headaches   2 thumbs up

Long story short, the oil pan was damaged, so for a relatively short period of time the engine was starved of oil and of course bearings were damaged in the process  skull

Luckily, the rest of the engine was not harmed; can you imagine the difficulty in finding a replacement spec c crankshaft  suicide; so the bearings are being swapped out for some ACL's. Although this is not really performance mod, but it should perform much much better than stock bearings For The Win

9  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: July 06, 2011, 09:45:37 PM
Looking good.....i see the supertones have been installed too...
Installed those myself and they were a PAIN!! but worth it  2 thumbs up

10  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: July 05, 2011, 11:52:55 AM
DETAIL DAY!! 2 thumbs up

In case ur interested in products i use for my detail sessions  For The Win

11  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: July 04, 2011, 05:18:25 PM
Looks really beautiful bro, I guess this car will have seen it's last owner.  Grin

Nothing is set in stone enuh  Grin but i'm workin on a long term relationship wub
12  General Information / General Discussion / Re: Roll Call!!! on: June 29, 2011, 11:19:32 PM
Gore Terrace  Huh? where is that?
13  Classifieds / Auto-Parts Wanted / For Sale / PERRIN STI Shifter Bushings and STI Black Resin Shift Knob FOR SALE on: June 29, 2011, 10:11:13 PM

 PERRIN shifter bushings are for STi 6 speed transmission ONLY
PRICE: $2500

the shift knob is for WRX or GC8 STi (5MT)
(ordered the 6speed for myself but they sent the wrong item, this knob comes stock on the STI Spec C RA-R)
PRICE: $5000 (selling at a LOSS)

CALL 3188965

14  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: June 27, 2011, 11:06:07 PM
Some of the parts have arrived yahoo

The RED Perrin STI Shifter Bushing are for sale still (already got the kartboy set) Price is $2500
15  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: June 24, 2011, 03:26:18 PM

16  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: June 03, 2011, 06:22:55 PM
Nice going bro  2 thumbs up
Just a point of interest, what the cost for the spray job ?

well the estimate wasn't exactly wallet friendly $160,000+ but it was the best price i could find (IN THAT QUALITY RANGE)...... it would be less but the windscreens are to be removed for the painting process and the price includes spraying all 4 rims... LHL was recommended to me by Lisa so I think I will be MORE than pleased with the results
17  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: June 01, 2011, 04:33:03 PM
Pics of the work-in-progress

Pics of DAY 2

18  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: June 01, 2011, 11:07:14 AM
Thought about it but not interested, I am willing to find any means necessary to combat heat soak to get the most out the top mount. I just dont like the idea of modifying the front bumper.
19  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: May 31, 2011, 07:09:44 PM
Pics are REAL nice dont even look like it needs to be resprayed, lookin forward to those pics tho!  good

lol thats the POWER of good photography... the car is pretty clean but there is 10 years worth of dinks and dents lol... jus want a clean slate

The Dom 2.5 is a very good turbo for a 2.0L. However, I havent done any research on the others you mentioned.

Re. your planned brake upgrades...are you upgrading to bigger calipers or just better pads. I'm asking because my car is making decent power and I am still pretty satsified with the performance of the Brembos (though, truth be told, I dont drive hard for prolonged periods so I dont know what the brake fade is like).

When i say upgrade i mean more along the lines of stainless steel lines and rotors, I know the factory lines are good stuff but with age comes wear = increased RISK
20  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: May 31, 2011, 01:05:09 PM
well i was advised by Paul to go for the Dom 2.5, but im leaning more towards the AMR CXR500, the AMR CXR550 or the Tomei ARMS M8265 .... preferably the CXR550 but I dont plan to change the turbo until all suspension upgrades, brake upgrades and any damage preventative mods are done.
21  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: May 30, 2011, 12:24:53 PM
Nice work bro, good to see someone doing mods these days.

Trying to keep the forum alive enuh  For The Win
22  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: May 27, 2011, 08:57:47 PM

Car will be going to LHL on Westminister Rd. to get a FULL Re-spray time will take approx. 2-3 weeks...will be posting pics of progress and finished product...

New parts have been ordered, waiting for arrival (hopefully end of June) :

Group N engine and Tranny Mounts
Kartboy Rear Sub-frame bushings
Kartboy Transmission Sub-frame Bushings
Kartboy Rear Sub-frame Lock-down Bolts
Kartboy Shifter Bushings (Front and Rear)
Perrin Short Shifter Adapter
Perrin Oil Catch Can
HELLA Supertones  For The Win
STi Black Resin Shift Knob
Titanium Heat Wrap (HIGHLY recommended by Paul Lee to combat heat and increase turbo spool)  good
Left and Right Fender Liners

Currently seeking:
New Turbo diablo
750cc Injectors
23  Classifieds / Auto-Parts Wanted / For Sale / Re: IHI Turbo NEEDED ......... on: March 18, 2011, 07:59:27 PM
Whats the condition of the back housing of ur VF34??
24  Classifieds / Auto-Parts Wanted / For Sale / LF VF exhaust housing on: March 03, 2011, 11:37:16 PM
Seeking either a VF30, 34, 24 or 39 exhaust housing please PM me
25  Technical Discussion / General Discussion / Re: GC AND GD suspension setups on: December 28, 2010, 09:34:48 AM
Anybody ever run KYB's with stock springs?
26  Technical Discussion / General Discussion / Re: GC AND GD suspension setups on: December 28, 2010, 09:33:42 AM
Running the Eibach KYB combo now, GD chassis, with 235/45/17 now....absolutely no complaints!!!  2 thumbs up

Still have the option of putting it on a side walk if absolutely necessary

As a daily driver its quite comfortable and the if required tight corners with the right amount of power at the wheels are a joy!

But most of all....@ 6 months pregnant....I dont get any complaints!   Grin

Are u running AGX's or GR-2's... wonderin if it worth the extra $100US for the AGX's Huh?  even tho they are adjustable i'm not sure if i wud take advantage of that perk
27  General Information / Members Rides / 2001 WRX STi Prodrive on: December 22, 2010, 08:02:44 PM

So, this is a factory WRX STi PRODRIVE Style with a spec c engine and stock VF30...
I got in contact with the first owner and he said that the original bumper and headlights were stolen(between japan and da wharf) i was seeking the OEM bumper but i checked it out n it costs $2000 US  


MODS (Previous Owner):

CLIFFORD G5 Alarm System
V7 Spec C Crankshaft
Ported Spec C Heads
HOA 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid
3" tapering to 2.5" Cat-less Downpipe
3" FORZA TUNING Cat-Back Exhaust
4" Cherry Bomb Straight Tube Glasspack
K&N Typhoon Intake System
Walbro 255 lph High Pressure Fuel Pump
Autometer Mechanical Boost gauge
Apexi Turbo Timer  
KOYO Aluminum Radiator
Custom Grounding Kit

MODS 11' (Current Owner)

Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
Gates Timing Belt and Timing Components Install
EXEDY Stage 1 Heavy Duty Clutch Kit (402 ft/lb ratings)
ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid

For Pics B4 the Re-spray SEE:,406.0.html
ACL Race Bearings
Group N Engine Mounts
Group N Transmission Mount
Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
Kartboy Rear Shifter Bushings
Kartboy Transmission Crossmember Bushings
Kartboy Rear Differential Support Bushings
Kartboy Rear Subframe "Lock Down" Bolts
Kartboy 6spd Shift Knob
PERRIN Lightened Crank Pulley
PERRIN Short Shifter Adapter
Denso Iridium IK22 One-Step Colder Spark Plugs
HAWK Performance Ceramic Brake Pads (Front and Rear)
28  Technical Discussion / General Discussion / GC AND GD suspension setups on: December 12, 2010, 09:33:30 AM
Found this on thought it might be of some use to u guys, it was for me victory


KYB AGX and Eibach Springs
Dampening: F: 3/4 R: 5/8
Spring rates: Don't know.
16x6.5" wheels (?)
2.5RS (GC) chassis
Use: Comfort
Notes: This set-up was the most comfortable. Car was lowered. Wasn't bouncy or rough at all.

Stock STi
Stock suspension
Use: Stock
Notes: Slightly more comfortable than the Helix coilovers.

BC Racing BR series (Unofficial and reviewed by charlesj)
Dampening: F: 10/30 R: 12/30
8k front, 6k rear
Dual 27mm bars
17x8 stockers or 18x8.5 track wheels
Whiteline lateral links
-2.75 front, -2.5 rear
Use: Comfort/Street
Notes: Not much stiffer than stock STi, pretty comfortable
Notes from DarkOnion: unofficial entry, but would probably be placed around here somewhere.

HSD HS Coilovers
Dampening: Unknown
Spring Rates: Unknown
16x6.5" wheels
Use: Street
Rex chassis
Notes: This is about the same as the Helix coilovers. Definitely stiffer than STi stock set-up, but not as stiff as the AGX with Swift springs.

Helix Coilovers
Dampening: F: 16/18 R: 15/18
Spring rates: F: 8k R: 6k
17"x 8" wheels
Rex chassis
Use: Street
Notes: No body roll at all. Great coilovers for the price. Not too stiff at all. Definitely closer to a street coilover set-up. Not excessively floaty or stiff.

AGX with Swift Springs
Dampening: F: 3/4 R: 6/8
Spring rates: unknown
GC chassis
Use: Street/Race
Notes: These springs were designed to be both a competitive and street based set-up. They are not as comfortable as the Eibach's above, but are slightly stiffer, if not similar to the Helix coilovers listed above.

JIC FLTA2 Coilovers
Dampening: Forgot (will update)
Spring rates: F: 7K R: 5K
17" wheels
GC chassis
Use: Street/Race (In the middle)
Notes: Coilovers are not as rough or as stiff as the HKS Hypermax II or the Cusco-Zero2R listed below, but is definitely bouncier. However... the bounciness, even though more frequent, is not as big bounces.

Stance GR+
Dampening: F: 8/15 R: 6/15
Spring rates: F: 8K R: 6K
17" wheels
GC chassis
Use: Race
Notes: Stance Coilovers would fall somewhere in there. I think they are definitely harsher than the JIC, but are somewhere near the Cusco's, and definitely more tame than the HKS Hypermax II's.

Dampening: Don't know... yet...
Spring rates: F: 12K R: 10K
Bugeye chassis
Use: Race
Notes: Stiff and bouncy, but not as uncomfortable as the HKS Hypermax II. This car set-up does require experience and practice handling the car.

HKS Hypermax II
Dampening: Lowest for F and R
Spring rates: F: 8K R: 6K
Rex chassis
Use: Race
Notes: More sharp feelings on bumps (speed bumps, blinkies, road imperfections) than other coilover set-ups.

29  Classifieds / Auto-Parts Wanted / For Sale / FS Stock STi air box with K&N filter on: December 02, 2010, 07:40:43 PM
PM me or call 412-3894, tex me if u doe get me
30  General Information / Members Rides / Re: 01 STI SPEC C on: November 30, 2010, 01:39:37 PM
ok guys well im a newbie in da subie world (previously a type R boi  blind)...  well im currently the owner of this beautiful machine  Grin had it fa about 6months now... for all u guys out there this aint no factory spec c, this is in fact a 2001 WRX STi Prodrive, reasons:
1)googled the chassis code
2) the prodrive was the FIRST STi with the raised wing 04-07(correct me if wrong)
3) spec c type ra wasnt manufactured in 2001
4) prodrive cluster gauge has red needles regular sti's are yellow
5) intercooler spray tank is in the engine bay not the trunk
6) lastly, car has all the luxuries we sometimes take for granted (radio, sound deading, power windows, A/c etc..)

i think the car had front end damage y it doesn't hav the OEM PRODRIVE front bumper(prefer the regular sti bumper neway )...
no clue if it has spec c internals tho ... dont hav any MAJOR mods planned as im still in skool but i hav some suspension tweaks i'd like to do so updates will be posted!!

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